Some of the latest work on the underside. I've added torque boxes front and rear, added braces from the torsion-bar crossmember to the front chassis rails, and stitch welded the subframes and other key points.

Here's one of the rear torque boxes. I've also added a plate to the leaf spring hanger mount inside the box section formed by the torque box plate, same as the factory hemi cars got.

I fabricated the front torque boxes as they were much simpler than the rears.

Welded in place.

Also picked up the CNC bent rollbar hoop.

Rollbar plan

Here's the plan for the rollbar. No more side intrusion bars due to them putting the rollbar in a more restrictive category with respect to MSNZ regulations.

Finished Rotisserie

 

I've finished the rotisserie frame for the car, with extra bracing, castors, and RHS tie bar.

Subframe Connectors

With the car on the rotisserie I could finish welding the underside of the floor to the subframe connectors. 

The torsion bar crossmember plate, note the gusseted torsion bar anchor, similar to what the 1970 Trans Am race cars had.

The other end of the bar, where it is slid into the rear chassis rail.

BBQ fish

Made a rotisserie for working on the underside. It's not quite finished, this is a trial fit. Good fun spinning the car around, and it sure makes getting through the layers of shitty underseal on the bottom easier.

Mopar Missile

Here's a quick concept image showing the front of the Kuda. Bring on summer!

Here's a little bit of the recent work. Around the door and window apertures I've added one or two plug welds between every factory spot weld.

Cut some templates to the inner roof skin shape and had some RHS bent up by Dydo manufacturing. These were for bracing the roof, and I had figured I'd tie the roll cage into these braces where they joined the sail panel structure. However I now plan to tie the main hoop to the sail panels via the upper seat belt mounts. That would make the horizontal brace unnecessary weight. And the roof is one of the worst places to add weight. So now I'm not sure I'll use these at all.

I milled them full of holes on one side to lighten them. I drilled the bottom of the horizontal piece thinking that I wanted the maximum surface area to glue to the roof skin with panel-bond epoxy. However after thinking about it I decided the upper surface was a better choice as there is still plenty of area for the roof skin to bond to it, and the weakening from the lightening holes would be offset by the roof skin. So I milled the holes into the top of the diagonal piece.

Here they are sitting in place, they fit up against the roof skin perfectly. If I did decide to use them I'd get another horizontal piece made up and drill the upper surface.

They were a good exercise, but they seem unnecessary now and I won't be adding them.

I've added a handbrake to get rid of the shit, factory, foot operated parking brake. Plus the subframe connectors get in the way of the factory underslung cables. Don't know if the parking brake mechanisms in the drums are up to handbrake slides, but it would be fun if they are.

 Doubling up the factory spot welds, tripling in many places.

 One of the base plates for the main rollbar to bolt to. 3mm steel with 10mm nuts welded on.

Welded in place.

Mockup of the foot plate and roll bar.

Interior

Here's a quick concept of the Kuda interior. The side intrusion bars are removable for the ladies.

That's better...   Overkill unless I roll the car.

Rear Brace

Making the rear brace for the half-cage backstays to mount to. First off a 3mm plate on the chassis rails. I drilled the chassis rails so I could plug weld to the plate when I weld up the underside.

 50x50 3mm RHS.

3mm top plate. This is what the backstays will bolt to.

The RHS braces extending rearwards to 3mm plates on the chassis rails, plug welded through the floor. Some really awkward places to weld...

Lateral bracing. Upon reflection while they would be suitable for stiffening the body for better performance, they aren't strong enough to count as a roll structure. So I'll cut them out tomorrow and put something beefier in...

A little bit of the latest work...

Rust repairs are finished, and strengthening work is going well. Here I've mocked up the rollbar and engine-bay inner-fender braces.

Filling unneeded holes in the firewall.

 Bracing mockup.

Rollbar mockup. This will be removable (the orange bar will also be removable from the main hoop, I can only run it when the back seats are out).

I love welding

Strength!

90% finished welding up the front. All seams have been stitch welded and the shock towers are fully welded and gusseted.

Also added a cross brace for the radiator frame. This added a lot of rigidity, you could really feel the difference by yanking on things before and after.

Inner Fender Bracing

Here's the factory inner fender brace, a pretty weak piece...  A few vendors, such as XV, sell additional bracing pieces to reinforce this area, but they are designed to be installed under the factory brace. I want to run my car as low as possible and lower braces would present clearance issues with the front tires. So I decided to make my own replacements for the factory piece.

 Cut it off. Note the bracing to make sure everything stays in place during cutting/welding.

 Plasma cutting the reinforcement plates for the cowl/firewall. I love this machine!

 Both sides of the fender/shock tower brace get boxed.

 Using the mill to lighten the new 25x50mm RHS braces.

All welded up. This should make this area nice and strong, while leaving adequate clearance for the front tires. On to the other side!

Workshop buddies

the Kuda Trailer...

Here's how I get the kuda project from place to place. Works great, even hooked up the rear lights.

Radiator frame / front rail support

Fabricating a 50x50mm 3mm wall RHS support for the front chassis rails / radiator support.

Rolled sections of 3mm steel.