The car is a trailer again as space was needed in the Weta studio.
Some of the work done lately includes reinforcing the rear chassis rails as the inner face was pretty thin with age. I sandblasted then primed them.
I cut plates out of 1.6mm steel and had a big swage put through the middle for rigidity.
Welded up, with the bottom edge ground smooth for a tidy look.
I also reworked the outer rear wheelhouses. My old tires used to rub in this area as the factory wheel houses curved excessively inwards.
Monday, September 5, 2011
Saturday, August 20, 2011
Some of the latest work on the underside. I've added torque boxes front and rear, added braces from the torsion-bar crossmember to the front chassis rails, and stitch welded the subframes and other key points.
Here's one of the rear torque boxes. I've also added a plate to the leaf spring hanger mount inside the box section formed by the torque box plate, same as the factory hemi cars got.
I fabricated the front torque boxes as they were much simpler than the rears.
Welded in place.
Also picked up the CNC bent rollbar hoop.
Here's one of the rear torque boxes. I've also added a plate to the leaf spring hanger mount inside the box section formed by the torque box plate, same as the factory hemi cars got.
I fabricated the front torque boxes as they were much simpler than the rears.
Welded in place.
Also picked up the CNC bent rollbar hoop.
Tuesday, August 16, 2011
Rollbar plan
Here's the plan for the rollbar. No more side intrusion bars due to them putting the rollbar in a more restrictive category with respect to MSNZ regulations.
Monday, August 8, 2011
Subframe Connectors
With the car on the rotisserie I could finish welding the underside of the floor to the subframe connectors. The torsion bar crossmember plate, note the gusseted torsion bar anchor, similar to what the 1970 Trans Am race cars had.
The other end of the bar, where it is slid into the rear chassis rail.
Sunday, July 31, 2011
BBQ fish
Made a rotisserie for working on the underside. It's not quite finished, this is a trial fit. Good fun spinning the car around, and it sure makes getting through the layers of shitty underseal on the bottom easier.
Saturday, July 23, 2011
Here's a little bit of the recent work. Around the door and window apertures I've added one or two plug welds between every factory spot weld.
Cut some templates to the inner roof skin shape and had some RHS bent up by Dydo manufacturing. These were for bracing the roof, and I had figured I'd tie the roll cage into these braces where they joined the sail panel structure. However I now plan to tie the main hoop to the sail panels via the upper seat belt mounts. That would make the horizontal brace unnecessary weight. And the roof is one of the worst places to add weight. So now I'm not sure I'll use these at all.
I milled them full of holes on one side to lighten them. I drilled the bottom of the horizontal piece thinking that I wanted the maximum surface area to glue to the roof skin with panel-bond epoxy. However after thinking about it I decided the upper surface was a better choice as there is still plenty of area for the roof skin to bond to it, and the weakening from the lightening holes would be offset by the roof skin. So I milled the holes into the top of the diagonal piece.
Here they are sitting in place, they fit up against the roof skin perfectly. If I did decide to use them I'd get another horizontal piece made up and drill the upper surface.
They were a good exercise, but they seem unnecessary now and I won't be adding them.
I've added a handbrake to get rid of the shit, factory, foot operated parking brake. Plus the subframe connectors get in the way of the factory underslung cables. Don't know if the parking brake mechanisms in the drums are up to handbrake slides, but it would be fun if they are.
Cut some templates to the inner roof skin shape and had some RHS bent up by Dydo manufacturing. These were for bracing the roof, and I had figured I'd tie the roll cage into these braces where they joined the sail panel structure. However I now plan to tie the main hoop to the sail panels via the upper seat belt mounts. That would make the horizontal brace unnecessary weight. And the roof is one of the worst places to add weight. So now I'm not sure I'll use these at all.
I milled them full of holes on one side to lighten them. I drilled the bottom of the horizontal piece thinking that I wanted the maximum surface area to glue to the roof skin with panel-bond epoxy. However after thinking about it I decided the upper surface was a better choice as there is still plenty of area for the roof skin to bond to it, and the weakening from the lightening holes would be offset by the roof skin. So I milled the holes into the top of the diagonal piece.
Here they are sitting in place, they fit up against the roof skin perfectly. If I did decide to use them I'd get another horizontal piece made up and drill the upper surface.
They were a good exercise, but they seem unnecessary now and I won't be adding them.
I've added a handbrake to get rid of the shit, factory, foot operated parking brake. Plus the subframe connectors get in the way of the factory underslung cables. Don't know if the parking brake mechanisms in the drums are up to handbrake slides, but it would be fun if they are.
Thursday, July 7, 2011
Saturday, July 2, 2011
Friday, July 1, 2011
Rear Brace
Making the rear brace for the half-cage backstays to mount to. First off a 3mm plate on the chassis rails. I drilled the chassis rails so I could plug weld to the plate when I weld up the underside.
50x50 3mm RHS.
3mm top plate. This is what the backstays will bolt to.
The RHS braces extending rearwards to 3mm plates on the chassis rails, plug welded through the floor. Some really awkward places to weld...
Lateral bracing. Upon reflection while they would be suitable for stiffening the body for better performance, they aren't strong enough to count as a roll structure. So I'll cut them out tomorrow and put something beefier in...
50x50 3mm RHS.
3mm top plate. This is what the backstays will bolt to.
The RHS braces extending rearwards to 3mm plates on the chassis rails, plug welded through the floor. Some really awkward places to weld...
Lateral bracing. Upon reflection while they would be suitable for stiffening the body for better performance, they aren't strong enough to count as a roll structure. So I'll cut them out tomorrow and put something beefier in...
Saturday, June 25, 2011
A little bit of the latest work...
Rust repairs are finished, and strengthening work is going well. Here I've mocked up the rollbar and engine-bay inner-fender braces.
Filling unneeded holes in the firewall.
Bracing mockup.
Rollbar mockup. This will be removable (the orange bar will also be removable from the main hoop, I can only run it when the back seats are out).
Filling unneeded holes in the firewall.
Bracing mockup.
Rollbar mockup. This will be removable (the orange bar will also be removable from the main hoop, I can only run it when the back seats are out).
Monday, June 13, 2011
Saturday, June 11, 2011
Strength!
90% finished welding up the front. All seams have been stitch welded and the shock towers are fully welded and gusseted.
Also added a cross brace for the radiator frame. This added a lot of rigidity, you could really feel the difference by yanking on things before and after.
Also added a cross brace for the radiator frame. This added a lot of rigidity, you could really feel the difference by yanking on things before and after.
Inner Fender Bracing
Here's the factory inner fender brace, a pretty weak piece... A few vendors, such as XV, sell additional bracing pieces to reinforce this area, but they are designed to be installed under the factory brace. I want to run my car as low as possible and lower braces would present clearance issues with the front tires. So I decided to make my own replacements for the factory piece.
Cut it off. Note the bracing to make sure everything stays in place during cutting/welding.
Plasma cutting the reinforcement plates for the cowl/firewall. I love this machine!
Both sides of the fender/shock tower brace get boxed.
Using the mill to lighten the new 25x50mm RHS braces.
All welded up. This should make this area nice and strong, while leaving adequate clearance for the front tires. On to the other side!
Cut it off. Note the bracing to make sure everything stays in place during cutting/welding.
Plasma cutting the reinforcement plates for the cowl/firewall. I love this machine!
Both sides of the fender/shock tower brace get boxed.
Using the mill to lighten the new 25x50mm RHS braces.
All welded up. This should make this area nice and strong, while leaving adequate clearance for the front tires. On to the other side!
Thursday, June 9, 2011
Monday, May 30, 2011
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